The wiring was a mess (for all equipment) so a new control panel with automatic fuses was installed togheter with new wiring. The 230v wiring (camping power) was also updated with automatic ground fuse and two new sockets with combined USB outlets.

The old interior lightbar was only 230v, but it was a great design so you can flip/turn the light angle. So I took it apart and converted it to 12v with LEDs. An extra LED light with two touch dim/settings was mounted up in the front of the sealing/roof also.

Under the rock n roll sofa I made space for 200amp of batteries (dual 100amp). These I connected to the car/start battery thru a relay, so the car alternator will charge all battery’s. These batteries are connected thru Bluetooth to my cellphone so I can see how much power is left and how much is charging. The solar panel (portable 120w) have a quick connection to these battery’s. Also the 5kw diesel heater is installed under the sofa. It takes air from outside and diesel from the main tank, and the exhaust is routed thru a silencer and out. It runs on diesel and 12v so it can be used anywhere for a very longtime, no need for 230v power. It has a digital display, and a thermostat so it will keep the inside toasty warm on winter. It can be started thru GSM net with my phone. I routed the heater outlets to the main floor and one to the back/bed. It works great and produce a lot of warm dry heat!

The walls, doors and roof was already insulated with 50mm cellplastic, thats very good! But I had some extra aluminium/bubblefoile rolls that I put inside some of the doors and walls for some extra insulation and vapor barier.

#vwt3overland

Have been working on the camping interior lately. The old interior was crappy and looked like shit, it had some structure wall weave/papper that hade been rolled with paint 10 times, the touch and feel was like a 40 grit sandpaper so it needed to go. But it was a good design/plan layout on the cabinets and storage. So I decided to keep the base of it and make a new outside finish on it in light grey oak vinyl.

All cabinet doors was made new in 12mm Medium Density Fibreboard and painted in medium gloss grey with paintgun. Countertop was made new in black colored MDF with semi-gloss clear coat, now with space for a portable kitchen / stove. Above the stove space I made a 12v kitchenfan with outlet, the fan is moving 3,8 squaremeters of air per minute so now you can make bacon with closed doors without smoke/smelling anything 😉

All the old gas equipment was removed, and the old fridge was replaced with a modern 12v Waeco 48L fridge with freezer. A new black sink and a new Reimo water tap was mounted. And all new waterlines, pump and 20L freshwatertank. Before the water ran straight out on the ground, now it goes into a 10L tank first, with a valve so the water can be emptyed. This is good of you are using water when you are on a parkinglot, ferry or on a big camping with neighbors.

Part 2 is coming on Tuesday…

#vwt3overland

Tested the bus on snow tonight, it rides great in snow with the terrain tires. And the heating works great now. It was -7c and inside of bus was 25+c 🙂 More about dieselheater and interior is coming soon…

Finally time for a test drive in the snow and mud. Awesome! Check out the video clips below. Tested the cab window covers from Justkampers.com and they are great when parked/camping. #vwt3overland

The bus is now finally Safetyinspected / MoT without any issues or problems. Perfect! Since this bus are rust free underneath and I’m going to use it in all weather/terrain a lot I decided to do a wax/oil undercoat on it to protect and keep it in nice shape for many years. I also sprayed inside doors, rockers etc with a thin wax/oil treatment. And yeah, the taillights and turn signals have been “smoked” for a more badass look 🙂

New speedometer and cable have been fitted, the needle on the old one was stuck! Added LED light diods to the rear engine bay, you cant have to much light when wrenching in that tight dark engine compartment, specially after the road. New modern wipers installed, and a new ventilation cover for the slidingdoor, painted in black. The old washerpump was junk so a new was added. Rear view / back up camera is now all done and is a great thing to have on a bus! More updates coming! It’s now ready for safetyinspection / MoT. Hope it goes well…

Some more stuff have been done on late nights and weekends. I have made some new doorpanels for the slidingdoor, painted in Westy grey-ish. Door was already insulated, but I added a extra layer of ThermoReflekt (folie with air bubbles) for extra insulation behind all door panels. Got a new outside door ventilation and painted it black.

Tested the new reverse lights in the dark and they were awesome! A pair of 120watts LED lights (12.000 lumen) wired to the back-up light (black/blue cable). Will add two more of these lights later on, mounted on each side of the bus.

More stuff have been done, but I save that for next post. Hopefully I can get it to the MoT/safetyinspection next week. Then I can start work more on the interior…

#vwt3overland

Lots have been done to the new VW T3 Highroof from 1983. I have got it running properly after lots of head scratching. It started and runned okey on idle when I bought it, but it had no power/torque and smoked a bit, so not possible to drive. The oil was nice and coolingwater had no oil mixed. Good!

I put the engine in TDC (top dead center), the cam and pump wheel marks lined up correct. After changing all filters and fuel I tuned the pump timing. But no change! 🙁

I decided to check the timingbelt again, it all looked right. Strange. But to be 100% sure I removed the valvecover and put the flywheel on TDC, and the camshaft in TDC on cylinder #1. The knocks on the cam should be like 10 and 14 a clock direction (valves closed). I checked the diesel pump wheel lock position it was looking right, BUT then I saw this pump wheel had a second lock position/hole. The workshop manual don’t describe this and showing only 1 locking position/hole in the pump wheel. That meaning it’s possible to put my wheel 180 degrees wrong, and pumps in fuel when the camshaft is on the #4 cylinder instead. I just loosen up the timingbelt, carefully turned the pump wheel 180 degrees and tightened it all up again. And it now runs like a champ and no smoking, awesome! VW only had this pump wheels between 1981-83 and then changed them so there where only 1 locking hole in them on 1984- onward.

I have fixed with the electrics and lights lately. New Front headlight have been installed, the old ones had bad reflectors in them and would never pass MoT safetyinspection. Turn signals did not work, not so strange when I pulled out the lightbulb holders, totally rusted out. New was ordered and installed, work great now. Rear high roof had some extra trailer/universal lights installed. Looked like shit, so they where replaced with two new LED spotlights 120watt that now are wired to the reverse back up lights. But the reverse light didn’t work, I found a loose connection (black/blue cable) in the black fuse box in the engine apartment, now works again. All lightbulbs are new and all lights are now working. The temperature gauge did not work and light for low water level flashed all the time, I noticed a black cable hanging loose besides the water expansion tank, but it had no sender and where just plugged. I ordered a new water level sender and temp sender, replaced them both and the gauge now work great again! Rear tailgate gasstruts was shot and I was tired to get it in my head all the time so replaced them with a new pair from JustKampers. Quick and great service from JustKampers as always, if you need quality VW parts those are the guys to talk to!

Left to do before safetyinspection is fixing the wipers and fan. More to come soon…

#vwt3overland

Another generation to the collection, at the moment I now have T1, T2 and T3 buses. This one is going to be the offroad bus and for autumn/winter camping/expeditions 🙂

It’s a 1983 Transporter with 1,6 Diesel and 4-speed transmission. It has a ugly camping interior already fitted that will get a refresh/restoration. A Webasto/Planar diesel heater with thermostat will be installed to the interior in future, so you can stay warm on the winter. New 12v fridge will be installed and the gas stove will be replaced with a new small portable gas bottle one.

The goal is to have it pass the MoT / Safety Inspection before the winter comes. The engine starts but is not running very well. It has a new cam, timingbelt, waterpump at the moment. Going to align the timing belt better because it squeaks at lower RPM right now. Also the diesel pump is needing adjustment with special VW TOOL 2066.

Some meaty offroad tires (Malatesta Kobra) have been fitted on stock VW 14″ steel wheels, that was sandblasted and painted. Looks badass now! The diesel tank have been drained on old diesel and a new fuel filter fitted. Also added some anti-bacteria and injectioncleaner to new diesel. New oil (15w-40 mineral) and filter in the engine too. New air cleaner filter added. Injection pump adjusted with micrometer (vw2066) up to 00,95, before was only 00,81. Engine now runs much smoother but need to align the timingbelt before any real test drive can be done. More too come soon…

My 1967 Ghia gets a complete overhaul of the frontend. It was all stock height but the front is a little to high for my taste, it needs to be lowered around 50-100mm to get the beauty lines of the car to really flow. Rear is stock height. A brand new adjustable 2″ narrowed front beam with needle bearings. New narrowed tierods, new droppen spindels, new wheelbearings, new shocks, and all the brakestuff was already new. Wheels will be polished Porsche Fuchs. Since I had to remove the fuel tank I installed new fuel lines and cleaned up the front luggage compartment a little. Here comes some pics…

In this post I will show how I make a cabinet door from a big sheet of plywood. After lots of measures it’s time to cut these numbers out to actually real things, this time cabinet doors for a overhead locker/storage to the Highroof Bay.

Draw up the dimensions on a 12mm lightweight plywood (never use ink pen!). Then cut it out with a steady hand and a jigsaw. Cut out laminate in slightly bigger size than the plywood, add 3M laminate glue on both sides, let it dry separate for 60mins. Then press the laminate together with the plywood and put it under pressure for at least 1hour or 2. Repeat it again to do the other side if needed. After this it’s time to use the electric wood router and cut out the coutures. Then cut a profile in the end of the door using a special router bit. When this is done you can start knocking on the edging, you can buy these from special wood company’s or camper conversion firms. Then measure out were you want the doorknob, drill it out, press in a bezel and install the lock. Mount hinges. Now you have one complete door, just everything else left to do 😉 Good luck!

Some of you have been asking for build plans for the Highroof Bay bus interior, but the only plans I have is in my head, sorry guys! 🙂

The new heater is now installed and incorporated with the old heater system design on the Highroof bus. Easiest and fastest way to install this would be to just place it under one of the sofas inside the bus and pull the heater hose out. But I decided to complicate it a little more but in the end with a much better result I believe. My bus had the Eberspacher heater M-code from factory so my idea is to remove the old heater and replace it with a new modern diesel heater.

Doing it this way, I will get a modern reliable diesel non explosive/safer heater than the old which ran on petrol. I will automatically get digital display with timer, remote start, thermostat control and much more. I will not loose space or hear the noise from it (like if it was installed inside the bus) because the heater will now be outside under the middle floor (inside the protective splashpan) where the old factory heater was mounted. I will now get heat not only in the rear of the bus but also in front cab and windshield ect. I will also add some extra airflaps in the heaterchannel so I can adjust the heat to only front or back to the rear floor, bed and top bunk. I will then insulate all pipes with aluminum air bubble foil to protect the heat from the cold surrounding. More work doing it like this but I think it will be all worth it in the end.

I started by removing the old crusty Eberspacher BA6 heater that was mounted in the center under the floor, mounted a new 90mm center pipe under floor instead (like on a ordinary Baywindow without the BA6 heater option). The new parking heater was the installed on the side of the new center pipe. It was a really tight fit, the height of the heater is 140mm and the space under floor was 145mm. I had to cut a 3-40mm notch out in one of the floor supports to make it even possible. The heater exhaust was wrapped in “header wrap” for less heat radiation and was routed out back to a muffler and then out in front of the left rear wheel. You don’t want to route the exhaust fumes out on the sliding door side of course! The fuel pump was mounted in a rubber holder in 40 degree angle on the frame of the bus, filter was put on outside for easier change in future. The air intake for the combustion chamber was routed back (don’t place it against wind/driving direction) and a filter bolted in the end. The air inlet to the heater fan is hooked up to the stock inlet pipe (from a hole under the rear rock n roll sofa). This means it will circulate warmer and warmer air, and don’t have to warm it up from ice cold outside air all the time. It will make it produce more heat too. The heater outlet is connected to a air flap (where I can choose where I want the hot air, front cabin or rear. I also made a extra heat pipe for the rear bed and top bunk, so you can feel the heat directly in the bed when you turn it on in the morning. 🙂 You can see the heat outlet in top bunk on the last picture. Stock is only rear floor otherwise. The small 10 liters diesel tank will be mounted under or behind the front passenger seat, this way you can easily see when it’s time to refill. It consumes only between 0,19-0,5 liters per hour. So on one tank it can run on full blast for about 20-24 hours before it time to fill it up again. Insulated all pipes from back/rear of the engine to all the way to the front cabin. Still have some electric wiring left to do before it all done. Can’t wait to test this beauty out!!

The inside roof/headliner is finished. And two roof ventilations installed the big one now have a fan with adjustable speed, blows out or in. 

Engine sheetmetal parts have been sandblasted and painted in Deep black paint finish.

Made a stainless bracket for outside 12v socket and water outlet. Good for shower or washing stuff off and the 12v socket will be perfect for side tent/awning light ect. Built in a electric “pop up” sockets in the overhead storage but turned it upside down so its now a “pop down” socket. 

Recived the brand new Parking diesel heater today. Its the big 5kw model with digital display with timer and temp thermostat. Only consumes 0,19-0,49 liters per hour! Just need to find a smart location for it, coolest would be to replace it where the old Eber BA6 heater was installed before. Will be tight fit and a little more work to do it. 

We will see what happens, stay tuned for updates soon…check out the videos!

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Getting stuff done on the #highroofbayproject ?

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Time flys, only a month until Christmas! Have hoped to start rebuilding the 1800cc AP engine in Januari but the interior build have got more complex than first planned and automaticly taken more time. Building it exactly as I want it. So much have been done, much stuff you dont see but in short following have been done;

All interior cabinets are bolted down and all electrics in them are finished. Watertanks is mounted and pumps wired, guagemeter for waterlevel, airvent, fillerpipe, wastewater lines ect. Front cab have got insulated and headliner installed, front roofcabinet is almost done too. New roof antenna is on. All wiring with stepdown reducer switch for 9 roof spotlights ready. Spotlights will just draw 300mA each. Roofventilation fan have been modified with adjustable voltage switch. So the fan speed can be RPM changed, rather than full speed all the time. 

Kevin at www.camperinteriors.co.uk have been great and very helpful with most of the interior bits. Check them out!

Slidingdoor is finished with new panel and ventilation outlets and the lock mechanism have been modified for electric lock. All doors now have been fixed for remote control. And keylocks have been taken apart and fixed so 1 key (ignition) works for all doors. A new slidingwindows have arrived from Justkampers.com and many other parts. Great service as always!

Have been routing waterlines, electrics, wires, 12v DC USB outlets, 240v hook up socket, inverter with pure sinuswave, batterycharger, thermostatic ventilation roof fan, controlpanel with automatic fuses, LED spotlights, Gasoline heater BA6 enerspracher, extra fridge fans with thermostat control and much more. 

Rock n roll bed/sofa is done with 45 liters freshwater tank underneith. Sink is finished with water inlet hot and cold. 12 liters greywatertank (if using water parked on camping or in city) Also have a outlet valve so it can be emptyed if parked in the woods. 

Overhead locker is almost finished also, that will have a ton of storage. And will also have controlpanel integrated and space for future solarpanel controllers ect.

More to come soon, next to do is installing headliner/roof before overhead locker goes in. Also all electrics in roof (fans, spotlights, 12v outlets ect) need to be done first!

Some news, have got the front bumper and sparewheel back on and also some new fog lights. Right now I’m working on insulation. First im using sound dampning material (black Mats). Then Reflektix (or ThermoReflekt called around here in EU),aluminium folie with airbubbels. After this I add cellfoam 30mm and end it all up with 3mm oil tempered hardboard lined with grey carpet. Before the hardboard get screwed back I soak the inside with wax oil for protection. This will be used in every wall except front doors that don’t have so much space inside. Maybe just sound dampening mats, reflektix and 10mm cellfoam. Inside of the roof is already covered with reflectix and will get some blocks of 20mm cellfoam and glasswhool then 3mm hardboard or pvc board with same grey carpet. This will keep the hot out on summer and the warmth inside on winter!

I also test fitted all the cabinets I built, the small and (what I thought) easiest furniture of the interior turned out to be the most complex so far. With a pop out dish rack storage on the side. Storage in the backrest also. And a seat (with space for PortaPotti toilet) that can be bolted on or lifted out when not needed for more space. It can also fold out a extra seat so 2 persons can sit on it. Compact living, No space goes to waste here! ?

Here is some pics! 

Piece by piece it’s coming together! I Have been fixing with the bumpers and wheels lately. It have all been sandblasted, welded, epoxyed, sanded, primered and painted in same white as the roof. Really starts to come together now, some light in the tunnel. But still lots left to do, here is some new pics…

#highroofbayproject