My 1967 Ghia gets a complete overhaul of the frontend. It was all stock height but the front is a little to high for my taste, it needs to be lowered around 50-100mm to get the beauty lines of the car to really flow. Rear is stock height. A brand new adjustable 2″ narrowed front beam with needle bearings. New narrowed tierods, new droppen spindels, new wheelbearings, new shocks, and all the brakestuff was already new. Wheels will be polished Porsche Fuchs. Since I had to remove the fuel tank I installed new fuel lines and cleaned up the front luggage compartment a little. Here comes some pics…
In this post I will show how I make a cabinet door from a big sheet of plywood. After lots of measures it’s time to cut these numbers out to actually real things, this time cabinet doors for a overhead locker/storage to the Highroof Bay.
Draw up the dimensions on a 12mm lightweight plywood (never use ink pen!). Then cut it out with a steady hand and a jigsaw. Cut out laminate in slightly bigger size than the plywood, add 3M laminate glue on both sides, let it dry separate for 60mins. Then press the laminate together with the plywood and put it under pressure for at least 1hour or 2. Repeat it again to do the other side if needed. After this it’s time to use the electric wood router and cut out the coutures. Then cut a profile in the end of the door using a special router bit. When this is done you can start knocking on the edging, you can buy these from special wood company’s or camper conversion firms. Then measure out were you want the doorknob, drill it out, press in a bezel and install the lock. Mount hinges. Now you have one complete door, just everything else left to do 😉 Good luck!
Some of you have been asking for build plans for the Highroof Bay bus interior, but the only plans I have is in my head, sorry guys! 🙂
The new heater is now installed and incorporated with the old heater system design on the Highroof bus. Easiest and fastest way to install this would be to just place it under one of the sofas inside the bus and pull the heater hose out. But I decided to complicate it a little more but in the end with a much better result I believe. My bus had the Eberspacher heater M-code from factory so my idea is to remove the old heater and replace it with a new modern diesel heater.
Doing it this way, I will get a modern reliable diesel non explosive/safer heater than the old which ran on petrol. I will automatically get digital display with timer, remote start, thermostat control and much more. I will not loose space or hear the noise from it (like if it was installed inside the bus) because the heater will now be outside under the middle floor (inside the protective splashpan) where the old factory heater was mounted. I will now get heat not only in the rear of the bus but also in front cab and windshield ect. I will also add some extra airflaps in the heaterchannel so I can adjust the heat to only front or back to the rear floor, bed and top bunk. I will then insulate all pipes with aluminum air bubble foil to protect the heat from the cold surrounding. More work doing it like this but I think it will be all worth it in the end.
I started by removing the old crusty Eberspacher BA6 heater that was mounted in the center under the floor, mounted a new 90mm center pipe under floor instead (like on a ordinary Baywindow without the BA6 heater option). The new parking heater was the installed on the side of the new center pipe. It was a really tight fit, the height of the heater is 140mm and the space under floor was 145mm. I had to cut a 3-40mm notch out in one of the floor supports to make it even possible. The heater exhaust was wrapped in “header wrap” for less heat radiation and was routed out back to a muffler and then out in front of the left rear wheel. You don’t want to route the exhaust fumes out on the sliding door side of course! The fuel pump was mounted in a rubber holder in 40 degree angle on the frame of the bus, filter was put on outside for easier change in future. The air intake for the combustion chamber was routed back (don’t place it against wind/driving direction) and a filter bolted in the end. The air inlet to the heater fan is hooked up to the stock inlet pipe (from a hole under the rear rock n roll sofa). This means it will circulate warmer and warmer air, and don’t have to warm it up from ice cold outside air all the time. It will make it produce more heat too. The heater outlet is connected to a air flap (where I can choose where I want the hot air, front cabin or rear. I also made a extra heat pipe for the rear bed and top bunk, so you can feel the heat directly in the bed when you turn it on in the morning. 🙂 You can see the heat outlet in top bunk on the last picture. Stock is only rear floor otherwise. The small 10 liters diesel tank will be mounted under or behind the front passenger seat, this way you can easily see when it’s time to refill. It consumes only between 0,19-0,5 liters per hour. So on one tank it can run on full blast for about 20-24 hours before it time to fill it up again. Insulated all pipes from back/rear of the engine to all the way to the front cabin. Still have some electric wiring left to do before it all done. Can’t wait to test this beauty out!!
The inside roof/headliner is finished. And two roof ventilations installed the big one now have a fan with adjustable speed, blows out or in.
Engine sheetmetal parts have been sandblasted and painted in Deep black paint finish.
Made a stainless bracket for outside 12v socket and water outlet. Good for shower or washing stuff off and the 12v socket will be perfect for side tent/awning light ect. Built in a electric “pop up” sockets in the overhead storage but turned it upside down so its now a “pop down” socket.
Recived the brand new Parking diesel heater today. Its the big 5kw model with digital display with timer and temp thermostat. Only consumes 0,19-0,49 liters per hour! Just need to find a smart location for it, coolest would be to replace it where the old Eber BA6 heater was installed before. Will be tight fit and a little more work to do it.
We will see what happens, stay tuned for updates soon…check out the videos!
Time flys, only a month until Christmas! Have hoped to start rebuilding the 1800cc AP engine in Januari but the interior build have got more complex than first planned and automaticly taken more time. Building it exactly as I want it. So much have been done, much stuff you dont see but in short following have been done;
All interior cabinets are bolted down and all electrics in them are finished. Watertanks is mounted and pumps wired, guagemeter for waterlevel, airvent, fillerpipe, wastewater lines ect. Front cab have got insulated and headliner installed, front roofcabinet is almost done too. New roof antenna is on. All wiring with stepdown reducer switch for 9 roof spotlights ready. Spotlights will just draw 300mA each. Roofventilation fan have been modified with adjustable voltage switch. So the fan speed can be RPM changed, rather than full speed all the time.
Kevin at www.camperinteriors.co.uk have been great and very helpful with most of the interior bits. Check them out!
Slidingdoor is finished with new panel and ventilation outlets and the lock mechanism have been modified for electric lock. All doors now have been fixed for remote control. And keylocks have been taken apart and fixed so 1 key (ignition) works for all doors. A new slidingwindows have arrived from Justkampers.com and many other parts. Great service as always!
Have been routing waterlines, electrics, wires, 12v DC USB outlets, 240v hook up socket, inverter with pure sinuswave, batterycharger, thermostatic ventilation roof fan, controlpanel with automatic fuses, LED spotlights, Gasoline heater BA6 enerspracher, extra fridge fans with thermostat control and much more.
Rock n roll bed/sofa is done with 45 liters freshwater tank underneith. Sink is finished with water inlet hot and cold. 12 liters greywatertank (if using water parked on camping or in city) Also have a outlet valve so it can be emptyed if parked in the woods.
Overhead locker is almost finished also, that will have a ton of storage. And will also have controlpanel integrated and space for future solarpanel controllers ect.
More to come soon, next to do is installing headliner/roof before overhead locker goes in. Also all electrics in roof (fans, spotlights, 12v outlets ect) need to be done first!
Some news, have got the front bumper and sparewheel back on and also some new fog lights. Right now I’m working on insulation. First im using sound dampning material (black Mats). Then Reflektix (or ThermoReflekt called around here in EU),aluminium folie with airbubbels. After this I add cellfoam 30mm and end it all up with 3mm oil tempered hardboard lined with grey carpet. Before the hardboard get screwed back I soak the inside with wax oil for protection. This will be used in every wall except front doors that don’t have so much space inside. Maybe just sound dampening mats, reflektix and 10mm cellfoam. Inside of the roof is already covered with reflectix and will get some blocks of 20mm cellfoam and glasswhool then 3mm hardboard or pvc board with same grey carpet. This will keep the hot out on summer and the warmth inside on winter!
I also test fitted all the cabinets I built, the small and (what I thought) easiest furniture of the interior turned out to be the most complex so far. With a pop out dish rack storage on the side. Storage in the backrest also. And a seat (with space for PortaPotti toilet) that can be bolted on or lifted out when not needed for more space. It can also fold out a extra seat so 2 persons can sit on it. Compact living, No space goes to waste here! ?
Piece by piece it’s coming together! I Have been fixing with the bumpers and wheels lately. It have all been sandblasted, welded, epoxyed, sanded, primered and painted in same white as the roof. Really starts to come together now, some light in the tunnel. But still lots left to do, here is some new pics…
Have now started with the interior on the Highroof bus. Have put sounddeadning mats in floors and doors, sprayed it all with wax for rust protection. Then added insulation (Refectix) a material of aluminium with plasticcells of air in middle. NASA came up with this tecnology when insulating spaceships actually! After this I put some extra 5mm insulation foamboards (green) then 15mm marine plywood and then a new linoleum carpet in Classic checker pattern, went with light grey to match the grey details on furnitures. The furnitures itselfs is in Light Oak wood finish (laminate). I built it all in a special extra light plywood 15mm. This interior is gona weight nothing!! And thats great in a slow VW bus, all the stuff thats going to be loaded in the cabinets are heavy enought 😉 The kitchen pod/cabinet is featuring a new Vitifrigio fridge on 48 liters + 2 liter freezer. A new small owen in stainless that will be running on 240v (euro). The zink is from a newer crashed/parted out Knaus campervan I bought cheap online. The lid in top is hiding a gastove and the cupboard in bottom will be housing the greywater tank etc.
Still have plenty to do before I can start restoring the 1800cc AP engine.
So the Highroof is now painted at last, in Marino Yellow VW L20a, period correct for 1975. It have been a ton of work and to get that yellow color to cover the bus needed to be painted 4times/coats. That because all yellow (and sometimes red) colors have less pigment than all other colors.
Now the fun can begin, mounting on all new parts like lights, handles etc! Next step will be to start with the interior and begin with insulation in walls and floor. Would be nice to have the most done on interior and exterior until fall so the winter can be focused on engine build and install etc.
Lots of work have been done lately on the VW Baywindow Highroof! Whole roof have been finished in California White color. All doors and lids have been painted on the insides and then fitted back on the body. All panels are now sanded in 800grit and ready for toppaint in VW L20a Marino Yellow!
In the latest issue of Power Magazine you can read all about my 1963 Chevrolet Impala lowrider that I built finish recently. More build pics can be found here on the website under Rides & Projects in Menu.
Finally time for some color! Texaco red and BP green with yellow sidecovers, next up is Gulf in dark blue and orange doors. Came out really nice, have come a longway since the start. No more rusty junk!
Alot of work have been done! Four of them are ready for paint, it will be Shell, Gulf, Texaco and BP at first. They may not have been so rusty but instead alot of dings and small dents everywhere, every door and panel needed skimcoating in bodyfiller to get straight again. So much more work then they first looked to be. But now they start to look nice again, the first gaspump out was the Shell. 9 different colors mixed and scanned after original paintchips and old parts, cans etc to get the right shade of each color. More to come soon…
The gaspumps project moves on. It have gone from bare metal and welding to rustprimer to highsolid surface primer. And are getting prepped for paint right as we speak, hopefully we can shoot some color this weekend!!
Painted a skateboard for my son Frans. Goldbase with hologramic metalflake in gold that shifts in all of the colorspectra and then I lined up a classic lowrider design that later was painted with candy paint in Root beer shade. Topping it all off with loads of clearcoat and sanding between each layer to get it super smoooth, like a mirror! Lots of hours in this board, I hope he dont make a boardslide with it 😉
Want something custom painted in flake? Just send me a message at: firstname.lastname@example.org
The gaspumps are back from mediablasting left are just bare and clean metal, 100% free from rust! Bodywork in progress, removing dents and welding in some new metal on bad places. Making them nice and straight again, like original. Then rust protection primer and after that ordinary surfacer/primer and then fix all small imperfections then we can start thinking of paint!
Its now all done, ready to ride! Made a engine cover from a piece of scrap metal, same as original but little modified for the bigger engine. Added some fake rust with airbrush and extra intakes, inspiration from 1950s Buick cars. Now the new part looks 50+ years old just like the rest…